A Night in Marseille: Discovering the City’s Unique Pizza Culture

A Night in Marseille: The City of Pizza

On a balmy evening in Marseille, the vibrant heart of France’s second-largest city, throngs of locals and visitors stroll through the graffiti-laden streets of the lively Cours Julien neighborhood. The buildings are adorned in vivid hues, evoking the colors of a shattered rainbow, as if the nearby Mediterranean had ebbed and flowed, leaving behind its palette of pigments.

As midnight approaches, the square remains alive with energy; laughter and friendly banter fill the air, accompanied by the unmistakable scent of pastis wafting from nearby tables. Although most restaurants have closed for the night, a warm glow invites passersby to open counters, where the delicious aromas of tomato sauce, melted cheese, and freshly baked dough create an irresistible allure.

“Here, the late-night food isn’t typically kebabs or crepes,” my friend Simon, a true Marseille native, explained when I settled in the city over a year ago. “It’s all about pizza.”

Marseille-style pizza boasts a crust that is notably firmer than the soft, chewy Neapolitan variety. Instead of the classic mozzarella, it is often topped with Emmental cheese, which some believe is a reflection of its historical availability in the region. Others argue that Emmental brings a saltier, richer flavor that complements the toppings beautifully. Pizza artisans frequently replace the traditional oregano with the fragrant Provençal marjoram, and sometimes, they add raw garlic for an extra kick.

The quintessential Marseille pizza is the moitié-moitié (half-half), a delightful concoction featuring a tomato base with anchovies on one side and gooey cheese on the other. Other popular varieties include:

• Armenian Pizza: A savory blend of minced beef, onions, and peppers.
• Corsican Pizza: Topped with sweet figatelli sausage and brousse cheese, reminiscent of ricotta.
• Halal Pizza: A delicious option available in Noailles, a bustling neighborhood near the port.

As the night deepens and the streets of Marseille continue to pulse with life, it’s clear that pizza is more than just a late-night snack here; it is a vibrant part of the local culture that brings people together, indulging in the rich flavors and unique twists that define this coastal city.