Culinary Traditions on Bari’s Beaches: A Family Affair

A Culinary Tradition on the Beaches of Bari

At 1 p.m. on the sun-kissed San Girolamo beach in Bari, Italy, the sweltering summer air is filled with the enticing aroma of fried green peppers. As the sun reaches its zenith and temperatures soar close to 100 degrees, families gather amidst a vibrant maze of colorful umbrellas and folding chairs. On plastic tables, the usual decks of playing cards and crossword puzzles give way to elegant cotton tablecloths, while exuberant shouts beckon children to come and share in the midday feast.

Aluminum trays overflow with an array of traditional dishes: luscious layers of lasagna, fragrant rice with mussels and potatoes, steaming plates of seafood pasta, raw octopus, and crispy fried sausages—all part of an enduring Italian custom that celebrates dining by the sea.

“When the heat becomes unbearable, we turn to vegetables,” says Grazia De Giosa, a 61-year-old matriarch who has lovingly prepared a three-course meal for her extended family. “Dishes like parmigiana are always a hit.”

However, in recent summers, this cherished ritual has begun to stir controversy. Local residents have observed a rising trend among beach clubs along the stunning Apulian coast around Bari, where an increasing number of establishments have instituted bans on bringing outside food.

“It can be quite unappealing to witness these large banquets on a private beach,” remarks Erika Scarimbolo, a 23-year-old bar waitress at the Adria 3.0 beach club in San Girolamo. “Sometimes, owners feel the need to maintain a certain level of decorum.”

San Girolamo beach, a stretch flanked by apartment buildings, is among the few remaining public beaches that have not succumbed to the rise of private beach clubs. Here, the community continues to embrace its culinary traditions.

• The early morning routine for many family cooks begins at the break of dawn, often as early as 4 a.m., to prepare the elaborate meals that will accompany them to the shore.
• As the day progresses, the beach transforms into a lively gathering spot filled with laughter, delicious food, and the sounds of the waves crashing against the shore.

Though the clash between tradition and commercialization continues to unfold, the spirit of togetherness and the joy of sharing a meal by the sea remain ingrained in the culture of this beautiful coastal region.