Exploring the Trans Dinarica: A Cycling Journey through the Balkans

Discovering the Trans Dinarica: A Cycling Adventure in the Balkans

“Hey mate!” a cyclist called out to us in a cheerful Australian accent as he pedaled past on the rocky dirt road that serves as the main thoroughfare of the picturesque village of Theth, nestled deep within Albania’s stunning Dinaric Alps. Alongside my friend and travel companion, Dave, I was taken aback; we hadn’t encountered another bikepacker in four days.

In June, Dave and I embarked on an exhilarating journey, traversing a section of the ambitious 2,500-mile Trans Dinarica cycling route. This unique trail weaves through Albania and other nations in the Western Balkans, threading its way across the Dinaric Alps, commonly referred to as the “Accursed Mountains.” The route begins in Slovenia and meanders through remote landscapes in Croatia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Serbia, Montenegro, Albania, Kosovo, and North Macedonia. It showcases a variety of public roads, blending gravel, dirt, and asphalt, making it accessible for cyclists of all experience levels and skills.

As we quickly discovered, biking the Trans Dinarica is a vastly different experience compared to cycling in the French Alps or the Italian Dolomites, even though the terrain features striking limestone formations and steep rock faces. In France and Italy, cyclists abound, tackling every switchback of renowned climbs, with bike repair shops readily available in most towns and a well-established cycling culture. In stark contrast, Dave and I frequently found ourselves without sight of a bike shop for days and often traversed long stretches without even a grocery store in sight. Nonetheless, the breathtaking scenery, tranquil roads, and the area’s eagerness to evolve into a tourist hotspot more than compensate for these challenges.

According to Jan Klavora, a Slovenian and one of the visionaries behind the Trans Dinarica, “The goal is to showcase the Balkans in a positive light and inspire travelers to experience this region from a fresh perspective, while promoting sustainable tourism.” He emphasized, “This route is economically beneficial as it stimulates business in areas that truly need it. It also fosters cultural connections by bridging communities that were once divided by conflict.”

The Western Balkan region has a complex history marked by significant political, social, and cultural turmoil throughout the 20th century, especially following World War II. The disintegration of Yugoslavia into six distinct states, coupled with the Yugoslav Wars—a series of ethnically motivated conflicts from 1991 to 2001—resulted in the tragic loss of approximately 140,000 lives.

Gradually, the region is experiencing an economic revival, with tourism being seen as a vital component of this transformation. Visitors are already flocking to the stunning coastline of Croatia, with interest gradually spreading towards Albania and Montenegro. However, the Trans Dinarica route ventures deep into the mountains—an area that remains relatively untouched and less frequented by the masses.