Exploring the Enchanting Camargue: Nature’s Aquatic Ballet

The Enchanting Camargue: A Dance of Nature

A flamboyance of flamingos gracefully waded through the shallow waters of a reed-lined marsh, their vibrant pink feathers reflecting the hues of the setting sun. The water mirrored their lithe bodies, creating a stunning tableau beneath a sky filled with clouds painted in shades of blush. Suddenly, my guide urged me to grab my binoculars: in the distance, the black silhouettes of cattle appeared, moving through the marsh like hippos in the Serengeti. I had never witnessed such a display of grace from cattle before; it was as if they were part of an aquatic ballet, perfectly encapsulating the essence of the Camargue.

Nestled in the largest delta of Western Europe, the Camargue is a rustic region in France where the Rhone River meets the Mediterranean Sea. Here, water dominates the landscape, outnumbering the land, and bulls outnumber the human population. This vibrant ecosystem attracts thousands of migratory birds to its nutrient-rich terrain, creating a colorful mosaic of verdant farmland, blue lagoons, sandy beaches, and white salt mounds that rise from marshes tinted pink by microscopic shrimp. “The landscape changes every day,” my guide, Jean-Yves Boulithe, 56, remarked, his deep connection to the land evident in his voice. Yet, despite the ever-evolving scenery, the Camarguais culture—embodied by fishermen and mustachioed cowboys known as gardians—gives the impression that time came to a standstill at the turn of the 20th century. Limited Wi-Fi and cell service further enhance this feeling of nostalgia.

The best way to experience the Camargue is to embrace a slower pace of life. With this in mind, I rented a car in Marseille last April, embarking on a grand tour of the region. The Camargue hugs the coast approximately halfway between Marseille and Montpellier, just south of the bustling tourist hub of Arles. I had been forewarned about the fierce mistral winds and the swarms of mosquitoes that tend to deter less adventurous travelers. Remembering this, I packed sturdy footwear suitable for muddy terrain, as many areas are only accessible on foot, horseback, or by bike.

A Land of Salt and Mosquitoes

A marsh near the Mas de l’Ange du Vaccarès, a charming guesthouse, offers sunset bird-watching tours that are not to be missed. Credit…Alex Cretey-Systermans for The New York Times

Near Arles, the mighty Rhone River splits into two branches—the Petit and the Grand—and nestled within this wishbone shape lies the approximately 300-square-mile Île de Camargue. Throughout history, the Rhone’s seasonal floods have posed a threat to this island ever since Phocaean traders and farmers arrived from Marseille around 600 B.C. In 1869, Napoleon III undertook a monumental project, completing a system of sea dikes and river canals that not only controlled the floods but also transformed the landscape into the unique and breathtaking terrain we cherish today.