The Reopening of Via dell’Amore: A Romantic Trail in Cinque Terre

Rediscovering the Via dell’Amore in Cinque Terre

In the picturesque village of Riomaggiore, one of the five breathtaking hamlets that form the stunning Cinque Terre along Italy’s rugged northwestern coastline, memories of the famed Via dell’Amore, or Love’s Lane, linger in the hearts of many locals. This captivating coastal trail, which connects Riomaggiore to the charming village of Manarola, has been a cherished spot for couples seeking romantic sunset views.

Marinella Cigliano, a local in her sixties, fondly recalls the thrill of sneaking away to the trail with a young boyfriend, only to be caught by her mother. “What kind of love lane would it be without a little romance?” she mused. As time passed, the trail became a family-friendly destination, with mothers bringing their children in strollers for leisurely afternoon walks. Roberta Pecunia, whose grandfather Brizio helped carve the path from solid rock in the 1930s, shared how it became a place of community bonding.

For many, the trail also held educational significance. Vittoria Capellini reminisces about her father, who, as a young boy, would traverse the trail to school. His mother would often urge him to “run like crazy” over the more precarious sections of the path, a testament to the trail’s unpredictable nature.

However, in 2012, disaster struck when a significant rockslide occurred, sealing off the beloved trail and leaving both tourists and residents disheartened. The closure severed an essential link for locals, complicating access to vital services, schools, shops, and even family members. The only remaining options for travel were overcrowded trains, ferries, or the grueling uphill paths that tested the endurance of even the most seasoned hikers. “For us, it was a tragedy,” lamented Ms. Cigliano, who operates a luggage deposit near the Riomaggiore train station.

After years of anticipation and a substantial investment of 24 million euros (approximately $26 million), the iconic trail has finally reopened to tourists this month. The extensive renovation was designed to reinforce the cliffs and prevent future rockslides, ensuring the safety of both visitors and locals. Yet, as the jubilant reopening unfolds, local officials are left contemplating the potential impacts of increased tourism on a region that has seen a dramatic surge in popularity in recent years.

“The type of tourism that transforms the Cinque Terre into a sort of Disneyland is a concern,” expressed Massimo Giacchetta, the regional president of a small-business association. The reopening of the Via dell’Amore marks not only a return to a cherished local tradition but also a pivotal moment for the future of tourism in this enchanting corner of Italy.