The Irresistible Allure of Cheese Scones in New Zealand

The Australia Letter

The Australia Letter is a weekly newsletter from our Australia bureau. This week’s issue is penned by Pete McKenzie, a reporter based in Auckland, New Zealand.

During a recent journey to Wellington, the capital of New Zealand and my childhood home, three things occupied my thoughts: the warmth of family, the joy of friends, and, perhaps most importantly, the irresistible allure of cheese scones. While reconnecting with loved ones was the primary purpose of my visit, it was the prospect of indulging in these delightful baked goods that truly sparked my excitement.

In my final years living in Wellington, I developed a habit—thanks to a friend’s intervention, meant to address my health—that saw me savoring cheese scones almost every morning. I realize I am not an outlier in this regard. Less sweet than traditional British scones yet far more flavorful than the American biscuit, the cheese scone has become an essential element of the New Zealand culinary landscape. It’s almost impossible to find a café in this country that doesn’t proudly display a plate of these delectable treats on the counter.

Engaging Kiwis in conversation about cheese scones often leads to a shared sense of rapture. Eugene O’Connor, a 29-year-old consultant in Wellington, professed he has a “crazy love affair” with the “delicious bite of buttery goodness.” Their absence was among the first challenges faced by Aimee Cox, 25, when she relocated to the United Kingdom for her studies. “I’ll be dreaming of cheese scones until I set foot on home soil,” she lamented.

However, not all cheese scones are created equal, as I soon discovered upon moving to Auckland, New Zealand’s largest city. Many of the scones there were disappointingly dry or lacked the burst of flavor that characterizes the Wellington variety, which is often made with generous portions of cheese. After returning home, my craving led me to knock on the kitchen door at Floriditas one early morning to satiate my passion for this beloved food.

Floriditas, one of the city’s oldest and most cherished cafes, is renowned for its Cheddar and arugula scones. The café’s talented baker, Holly Sinclair, begins her day at the crack of dawn, crafting these delightful pastries starting at 6 a.m. After spending a significant part of her career in the United States and Canada, returning to New Zealand was a bit of a culture shock for her. “It feels like stepping into a time warp when you come back here from overseas. I mean that in the best possible way,” she remarked with a laugh, as she poured flour, cayenne, and butter into an industrial mixing machine.

In New Zealand, most cafés are independently owned establishments, rather than large chains, and the culinary preferences tend to gravitate towards the familiar. “New Zealanders are creatures of habit. It’s got a lot to do with our isolation,” Ms. Sinclair noted. I couldn’t help but think that the stereotype of New Zealanders as hobbits, inspired by “The Lord of the Rings,” isn’t too far from reality. She chuckled in agreement, expressing her belief that this love for the simple and familiar is a big reason why Kiwis are so passionately obsessed with cheese scones. “We like the familiar. We’re smaller and more quaint than the Americans,” she concluded with a smile.