The Transformation of Bakhmut: A Winery Turned Field Hospital in War-Torn Ukraine

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Vintage of War

By Nanna Heitmann and Eric Nagourney

In the midst of a devastating conflict, Russian forces are entrenched in a fierce battle to seize control of eastern Ukraine. Among the remnants of a once-thriving winery, a makeshift field hospital has been established to treat the wounded soldiers who bear the scars of war. As a new patient is brought in, medics hurriedly transfer him onto a stretcher, swiftly cutting away his clothing to evaluate his injuries and initiate intravenous treatment.

Once a popular destination for tourists who explored its tunnels adorned with intricate carvings and savored the renowned sparkling wines of Bakhmut, this place has now transformed into a stark reminder of the ongoing violence. The Russian soldiers, often deprived of sunlight, find fleeting moments of solace in the remnants of holiday decorations, such as a Christmas tree that still stands, a relic of better times long past. The walls are adorned with heartfelt cards and drawings, sent by children from their hometowns, offering encouragement to recuperating soldiers.

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Vintage of War

Photographs by Nanna Heitmann

Written by Eric Nagourney

July 26, 2024, 12:01 a.m. ET

Once the domain of Bacchus, the god of wine, this location now bears the imprint of Mars, the god of war. Beneath Bakhmut, a network of tunnels has existed for generations. Initially utilized by the mining industry until the 1960s, these subterranean passages later became the domain of vintners. However, following Russia’s invasion in 2022, they have been repurposed yet again for a grim new function.

As fierce battles rage between Russian and Ukrainian forces, Moscow has established a stabilization point, equipping it with medical supplies and positioning it near the rows of dusty wine bottles that remain, a testament to Bakhmut’s former glory. Although Russian forces managed to capture the city last year, the surrounding areas continue to experience intense fighting. Many soldiers arriving at the field hospital have sustained injuries on the frontline in Klishchiivka, a particularly brutal battleground on the city’s outskirts.

The room where the patients are treated, located near the entrance to an old decanting chamber adorned with Romanesque sculptures, once resonated with joyful celebrations. Now, it is filled with the somber sounds of pain and despair. Days spent underground stretch long, as venturing outside poses significant risks due to the constant threat of drones overhead. Tragically, just a month prior, a medic on the night shift lost his life to a drone strike.

This is what we know about the patient:

• He is Russian.
• He survived the ordeal.
• He has been transferred to a hospital further from the front lines — but not before enduring the loss of an arm and a leg.