The Unique Waiters’ Race in Soho: A Test of Skill and Style

The Art of Waiting: A Unique Competition in London

An exceptional waiter embodies both the grace of a gymnast and the finesse of a poet. One must possess the ability to speak quickly while showcasing impressive footwork and maintaining a steel-trap memory. Another must skillfully navigate a crowded venue, dodging pushed-back chairs, all while balancing a martini high above without spilling a single drop. On a lively Sunday afternoon, around 50 professional servers gathered from various corners of London to participate in an annual waiters’ race through the bustling heart of Soho.

This competition was no ordinary footrace. While speed was certainly a factor, the true essence lay in the flair, charm, and an indescribable quality known as waiterliness. “This event emphasizes style just as much as it does speed,” explained the organizer, Takashi O’Rourke.

The waiters were challenged to navigate a course lined with enthusiastic (and mostly well-behaved) spectators, all while completing the circuit as swiftly as possible. However, looking the part was just as crucial, which meant donning waiterly—or at least waiter-inspired—attire, and balancing a tray filled with an ashtray, a neatly folded napkin, a wine glass, and a bottle of sparkling fizz.

And let’s not forget the one-handed balancing act!

“This is a special race designed to test your skills as a waiter,” the official rules state, “not merely your speed as a runner.”

Pre-race practice unfolded in London on that Sunday, a testament to the competitive spirit. This thrilling event has been celebrated in various forms since at least the mid-1950s, captivating audiences year after year.

Credit: Andrew Testa for The New York Times