Lanzarote: A Land of Secrets and Mysteries

“Lanzarote is a place of secrets and mysteries,” the renowned Spanish filmmaker Pedro Almodóvar once remarked about the island where he filmed “Broken Embraces” in 2009. He described Lanzarote as a place with healing qualities, capable of making the tensions of Madrid disappear upon arrival.

Almodóvar’s words, shared in a 2008 interview with the Spanish newspaper El Diario, sparked a curiosity in me about Lanzarote, the easternmost of the seven main Canary Islands. His depiction painted it as an ideal retreat for those seeking solace after attending the vibrant Pride events on nearby Gran Canaria, a favored gay destination in Europe. Intrigued by this contrast, I decided to explore Lanzarote in May, while festivities on Gran Canaria were in full swing.

After a short 45-minute flight from the lush, green landscapes of Gran Canaria, the stark, volcanic terrain of Lanzarote was a striking contrast. To absorb the unique beauty of the island, I ascended the Montaña de Guanapay, a rugged hill rising about 1,440 feet above the village of Teguise, where the Castle of Santa Bárbara sits perched.

Legend has it that in the early 14th century, Lancelotto Malocello, a Genoese merchant and navigator, oversaw the construction of a watchtower on this hill. Malocello’s departure from the island two decades later followed an uprising by the Guanche, the Indigenous Berber inhabitants who were eventually integrated into Spanish settlements. Malocello is believed to be the origin of the name “Lanzarote,” and the panoramic vistas from this historical site remain as breathtaking as ever.