World
Chasing Family History in Altay
Embark on a captivating journey of tracing your family roots in Altay, uncovering the rich history and cultural heritage of your ancestors in this picturesque region. Discover the stories and connections that shaped your family tree.
I found myself in the remote town of Altay, nestled in the far northwest region of Xinjiang, China. This mountainous area shares borders with Russia, Mongolia, and Kazakhstan, making it a captivating blend of cultures and landscapes. Despite being thousands of miles away from my usual base in Beijing as a bureau chief for The New York Times, I was on a personal mission.
A Chance Encounter at the Civil Affairs Bureau
During my visit in 2014, amidst President Xi Jinping’s tightening grip on Xinjiang, I ventured into Altay’s Civil Affairs Bureau in search of records pertaining to my father’s service in a Chinese army unit over six decades ago. Aware of the watchful eyes of the authorities on foreign journalists in the region, I knew time was of the essence.
Inside the bureau, I struck up a conversation with Wei Yangxuan, a young woman and army veteran who assisted military retirees. With little hope of finding information about my father’s past, I asked her about an old army base where my father, an ethnic Han soldier, had served alongside Kazakh cavalry soldiers in 1952.
Wei shook her head, indicating she had no knowledge of the base I mentioned. Realizing this might be my only opportunity, I decided to make a phone call to my father back in suburban Virginia, hoping he could provide some details to help in my search.
I dialed his number and as he picked up, I informed him of my unexpected presence in Altay. His incredulous response echoed through the phone, highlighting the distance between us both physically and temporally.
The remote town of Altay in China’s northwest Xinjiang region is tucked into the mountainous border with Russia, Mongolia and Kazakhstan.
Credit: Gilles Sabrié for The New York Times